A car that will not start has at least four common causes, and three of them are not the battery. We test the system before anybody sells you a part.
Electrical faults are where guessing gets expensive fastest, because the parts are not cheap and swapping them is tempting. A proper charging system test settles the argument.
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Our starting and charging check is $10 off and covers the complete electrical system: battery condition and state of health, cables and connections, starter operation under load, and alternator output. It comes with a free tire rotation, which is a genuinely good deal on a test most shops either charge for or skip.
For intermittent faults and parasitic drains we do the unglamorous work: current draw measurement, circuit isolation, wiring diagrams and voltage drop testing. This is the category where a shop either has the patience and the equipment or starts replacing modules, and replacing modules on a guess gets very expensive very quickly.
Altitude and cold are not kind to batteries here. A battery that tests marginal in October is a battery that strands somebody in January, so we would rather tell you in October.
Tested for state of health rather than just voltage, and matched to the cold cranking amps your vehicle actually needs.
Output tested under load, including the diode failures that cause drains without ever lighting the dash.
Draw testing to separate a failing starter from a bad ground or a tired battery.
Chafed harnesses, corroded grounds and the connector failures Colorado winters produce.
Measured properly, module by module, until the culprit is found.
Headlights, tail lights, and the switches and modules behind them.
Say the code when you call, or show this page on your phone at the counter. Nothing to print.
$10 off the full starting and charging check
Say BATTERY when you call to book your appointment
Most vehicles. Tax and shop supplies excluded. One coupon per invoice. Not good in combination with any other offer.
That is exactly what a charging system test answers. Rough rule: if a jump start gets you going and it dies again shortly after, suspect the alternator. If it starts and runs fine but is dead again the next morning, suspect the battery or a drain. Testing beats both rules of thumb.
Three to five years is typical here, on the shorter end of the national average. Heat degrades batteries and cold exposes them, and the Front Range delivers plenty of both. Get it tested each fall after year three.
Battery testers at parts counters are usually accurate as far as they go, but they test the battery in isolation. They do not test starter draw, alternator output under load, cable voltage drop or a parasitic drain. A good battery in a bad system still leaves you stranded.
That is a parasitic drain, and it is found by measuring current with the car asleep and then isolating circuits until it drops. It is methodical work rather than clever work, and it is the only reliable way to catch it.
Yes. Alternators, starters, ignition components and the wiring and connector repairs that go with them are covered for 48 months or 50,000 miles on parts and labor.
Get it tested before anybody buys a part. Ten dollars off the full starting and charging check, with a free tire rotation.
Open Monday through Friday, 8:00am to 5:30pm. Courtesy shuttle within about five miles.